Based on the advice of our host, we decided to visit the ruins of Ephesus in the afternoon in order to avoid tour groups (John's pet hate). After a relaxed morning, we stopped by a supermarket and started walking the 3 km to the ruins with a picnic in our bag.
Ephesus has seen many civilisations come and go. The earliest remains found in Ephesus date from the 7th century BC. It was conquered by Alexander the Geat in 334 BC, and was later integrated into the Roman Empire. Under Emperor Augustus, Ephesus was the most important Asian province of Rome. In the 3rd century AD it was destroyed by the Goths, and the city came under the rule of the Byzantines from the 4th to 14th centuries AD, when it was absorbed into the Ottoman Empire.
In previous centuries Ephesus was a port city by the bay. Harbour street (or Arcadian street), built in the Hellenistic period and restored by Emperor Arcadius in the early 4th century AD, was the first street sailors and traders would enter. It was thus designed to impress ; shops and galleries were set up along the marble colonnaded street.
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| Harbour or Arcadian street |
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| Swamps at the beginning of Arcadian street, with the Theatre in the background |
On the left of Harbour street, by the entrance to the site, was the Church of the Virgin Mary. Originally a temple, the building was converted into a basilica dedicated to the Virgin Mary when Christianity was officially adopted by the Roman Empire.
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| Church of the Virgin Mary |
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| Interior of the Church, currently under renovation |
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| Well-preserved baptistery |
We walked cross-country back to Harbour street, which led us to the impressive Theatre. Built in the Hellenistic period (50-100 AD), it was later enlarged by the Romans, and was capable of holding 25,000 people. John clapped his hands to try the acoustics, but this time refrained from singing, probably because of the number of people around.
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| The Fountain House at the front of the Theatre, dating from the 3rd-1st century BC |
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| John dwarfed by in the impressive Theatre |
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| Orchestra and Stage of the Theatre |
We stopped by the side of the Theatre to have our little picnic and were joined by a friendly tortue. We tried to share a bit of our bread but it did not seem interested.
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| Picnic by the Theatre |
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| Friendly and curious tortue |
Crossing the agora, the main trading centre, and walking through the Mazaeus and Mithridates Gate (4th c. BC), we arrived in front of the Celsus Library, built to honour Tiberius Julius Celsus, General governor of the Roman province of Asia. Completed in 125 AD, it used to contain 12,000 papyrus rolls.
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| View of the Agora and of the Celsus library (left) |
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| Mazaeus and Mithridates Gate, built for Augustus by slaves he had freed |
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| Celsus library when they started the excavations |
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| Celsus library after restoration |
On the right of Curetes way, which linked the Celsus Library to the State Agora, terraced houses dating mostly from 1st AD gave great insights into the lifestyle of rich Ephesians. These houses were covered to protect them from the elements while excavations and reconstruction (particularly of the mosaics, marble walls, and frescoes) were underway.
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| Advertised as the greatest puzzle in the world |
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| Frescoes on the walls and mosaics on the floors |
We continued our way up to the top of the city following the Curetes way, where many more interesting monuments awaited us.
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| We were not alone on Curetes way |
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| Public latrine for men that could accommodate 50 people. Now a major attraction for tour groups. |
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| Temple of Hadrian, 2nd c. AD, with beautiful friezes |
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| Fountain of Trajan, 2nd c. AD; the statues are now displayed at the museums in Selcuk and London |
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| Temple for the Emperor Cult, dedicated to Domitian (1st c. AD), and later to the Flavian family |
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| Heracles Gate, with statues of Heracles on each side, 4th c. AD |
At the end of Curetes way we reached the State Agora, built in the 1st century AD, and where religious and state meetings were held.
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| State Agora |
The Odeon on our left, built in 150 AD, was mainly used to discuss important affairs of the city among members of the city council and rich Ephesians. It would also have held concerts for a smaller number of people than the Theatre.
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| Part of the State Agora and Odeon |
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| Odeon |
We retraced our steps to enjoy the ruins in the late afternoon sun (and with a significantly smaller number of tourists), and walked along the Marble street instead of going through the Agora.
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| Celsus Library without the crowds |
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| Looking back up Curetes way after the tour groups have departed |
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| Marks on the pavement of Marble street thought to indicate the way to a House of Pleasure |
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| The building known as the House of Love (although it is now thought to have had a less interesting use) |
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| The Theatre in the late afternoon sun |
When we arrived back at the hostel a very tasty barbecued chicken was waiting for us. Without further ado we greedily attacked our huge pieces of chicken, which were a great reward after a long afternoon of walking around the ruins.
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| On the way back to Selçuk as the sun was setting behind us |
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