16th-17th October: Pucon and Parque National Huerquehue

We spent the first day in Pucon relaxing, talking to tour agencies about our options for the next few days, and walking along the beachfront of Lake Villarrica.  For dinner we tried out a place that had been recommended by one of the Santiago-based expats we'd met in Santa Cruz; the ravioli filled with Antarctic krill and cheese were intriguing, but more a novelty than something I'd want to eat on a regular basis.

The next morning we woke early and caught the first bus to Parque National Huerquehue, around 45 minutes east of Pucon.  The French-run agency we'd spoken to the previous day had talked us into renting snow-shoes ("raquets"), and although there was no snow at the entrance to the park we were assured by the park ranger that they would be useful (in any case we'd agreed that we wouldn't need to pay if we didn't use them).

The trail starts out through beautiful woodland, with tall old trees forming a thick canopy above, before emerging onto the shore of Lago Tinquilco (a great spot for swimming in the summer, but a bit chilly in very early spring).  After walking for around half an hour on flat ground, we started to climb up through the forest, reaching a park checkpoint after another half an hour or so.  Still no sign of snow, although the muddy path suggested that it hadn't melted too long ago.  From here the path became gradually steeper, and soon the trekking poles we'd rented together with the snow-shoes became useful (if only for balance as we hopped between muddy patches).  We passed a couple of turn-offs signposted to waterfalls, leaving them for the way back.

View of Lago Tinquilco as we started the trek

By now there were patches of snow on the side of the path, but still the snow-shoes hung from the side of our bags.  After another hour or so uphill we arrived at two "miradors" with beautiful views of Volcan Villarrica (the next day's challenge, weather permitting) across the bright blue Lago Tinquilco and the dense forest covering the mountains.  A little further up the trail, climbing quite steeply now, and here the snow had not yet melted from the path.  The snow was not too deep, and footprints meant there was no problem walking with boots (as Clem continued to do).  I decided, however, that I may as well get some fun out of the snow-shoes rather than hauling them up and down the mountain, so strapped myself in.  It wasn't really much help, as I now couldn't fit into the footprints in the snow, but it was at least entertaining.

Mirador 1: Lago Tinquilco and Volcan Villarrica

First sighting of snow

Getting some use out of the snow-shoes

Mirador 2: same lake, same volcano, higher up

After another hour or so from the miradors, we arrived at the first of the alpine lakes, called Lago Chico.   We crossed a wooden bridge over the stream coming down from the lake, and could hear the roar of the waterfall just below.  Here the stunning view was rather impaired by the sight, albeit in the distance, of the backside of some loon who'd decided to take an ice-cold dip (not before posing for a photo from his pal).  Thankfully Clem wasn't wearing her glasses.  We waited til he'd put his clothes back on (after a very brief splash), then walked through the trees lining the lake-shore.  By now the snow was thicker and we were both wearing our snow-shoes.

The stream running from Lago Chico off the edge of the mountain

Lago Chico

We then reached a fork in the road, one path leading to Laguna el Toro and another leading to Lago Verde.  We walked another hundred metres down to the shore of Laguna el Toro, but the path was closed due to deep snow so we turned back, even though we were tempted to see how effective our snow-shoes could be.

Path closed!

We followed the path to Lago Verde, although here the path was far less clear.  We plodded along the edge of a gurgling stream, leaning into the side of the mountain.  Our progress was slowed by a large tree that had fallen across the line of footprints, no easy task to clamber over in snow-shoes.  Just as we were starting to worry where this "path" was taking us, we arrived at Lago Verde.  The thick layer of snow that covered most of the lake hid the colour of the water, but there was a small break in the ice, leading to the stream we'd walked along, where we could make out the clear green water that gave the lake its name.  We paused here for lunch (bread and salami that we'd bought at the supermarket in Pucon), and tried to continue along the narrow path around the edge of the lake.  The complete absence of footprints persuaded us, however, that it might be wiser to retrace our steps.  Again we had fun climbing back over the fallen tree, but we arrived safely back at Lago Chico.

Lago Verde, without the verde

Picnic

The coniferous Pehuen tree, also called the Araucaria (named after the region) and the Monkey-Puzzle

To be fair to Clem (see video above), there was a very steep slope on the left.

Here we took advantage of the absence of naked men to go down to the shore and take photos, before heading back down the path.  We took off our snow-shoes and bounded along as quickly as possible, trying to avoid a French woman who was blabbering away very loudly to the guy walking behind her.  We remembered to stop off at the waterfalls, whose beauty was thankfully not ruined by the garrulous woman, who stopped talking just long enough to take our photo.

Lago Chico (encore)

Bridge leading to the waterfalls

Cascada Trafulco

Cascada Nido de Aguila

We arrived back at the entrance to the park at around 5, just in time to catch the last bus back to town, now completely exhausted.  We made our way to the agency, Aguaventura, where we returned our poles, gaiters, and snow-shoes.  They then fitted us for the equipment necessary for the trek up the volcano: mountain boots, helmet, and thick snow-suit.  We had dinner at the hostel's excellent restaurant, and went to bed early, ready to wake up at 6 the next morning.