2nd-3rd October: Inca trail, days 3 and 4

Our third day started just as the second had, with a cup of mate de coca at 5am.  Our bags packed, we had breakfast at 5.40.  Au menu: porridge, tea/coffee/hot chocolate, pancakes, bread, and jam.  We left camp and walked up hill for around 20-30 mins.  We then paused to have a look at the ruins of Runkuracay, a circular complex that may have been a watchman's tower and a resting-place for messengers carrying news from across the empire to Machu Picchu.

View over the ruins of Runkuracay

We continued our ascent for another 40 minutes to the second pass, Abra de Runkuracay, at 4000m.  Here Ruben told us about Inca rituals, in particular prayers to Pacha Mama (mother earth) and the four sacred mountains around the Sacred Valley.  From there until Machu Picchu around 80% of the trail is original Inca construction, compared to only 20% at the start of the first day.  We then passed by Conchamarca, which apparently also used to be a resting-place for messengers (though it seems strange that there should have been two resting-places so close to each other).

Shortly after Abra de Runkaracay we entered the cloud forest, a sudden change of scenery at the altitude tipping-point.  By now the sky was clouded over, appropriately for our journey through the cloud forest.  Here we passed through the Inca Tunnel, a 10 metre channel cut through the mountain rock.

We left the cloud forest behind and arrived in Caquiqoche.  This campsite had been scheduled as our lunch stop, but as we were making good time we decided to press on and have lunch at our campsite for the night, which would give us plenty of time to look around Winaywayna, important ruins near the campsite.

After another steep climb we reached the third pass, Abra de Phuyupatamarca.  Some of the groups had been allocated the campsite there, which was unfortunate for them because it meant they were too far away from the entrance to Machu Picchu to have a chance to beat the crowds (and it would make for a long 4th day with steep stairs to start the day).  From there we proceded down to the ruins of Phuyupatamarka ("Forever cloudy").  The ruins were indeed smothered in cloud, as terraces swept down on the mountain on all sides.  We then climbed down some impressively steep steps, around 2250 of them, which was painful for the thighs, knees and calves.  Thankfully we had sticks to take some of the burden.  The porters were running down, of course.

Staying away from the edge...

Ruins of Phuyupatamarka

Walking down carefully

After the stairs, we walked down a narrow footpath (thankfully, there were no more stairs to torture our thighs, knees, or calves).   We finally reached the campsite, where we had lunch, which was a good récompense after the walk. After a cold shower and a short siesta, we went for a worthwhile visit of the site of Winaywayna (5 minutes away).  The site offered a great view over the valley and the mountain range with snow-capped mountains in the background.  Ruben gave us some explanations concerning the ruins and the Incas more generally.

After tea time (during which we were served pop corn and banana fritters), we prepared our bags for the early departure the next day.  We were introduced to the porters, some of whom were above 50 years old, which was a lot of fun thanks to our cheerful guide Ruben.  John got a kiss from one of them (his bad for joking that he was single).

Group picture

View from the campsite in the evening

Cake for dessert!

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On the final day we woke up at 3:20 am, packed our bags and went for a quick breakfast.  It was too early to be hungry, but we were given snacks for later.  We arrived at the check point  for the last walk to Machu Picchu at around 4:30 am (one hour before it opens), at the head of a queue of around 100 trekkers.  The cold and the excitement kept us awake.  One hour later, we passed the check point and were good to go.  A vos marques, pres, partez! Led by the Femke the athlete, we sped along the stone pathways, with the valley falling away sharply to our right.  Some parts were a bit narrow, but there was no time for faint-hearts.  About 50 minutes later, we climbed/scrambled up the "Oh my god stairs" (near-vertical stairs) and reached the Sun Gate from which we enjoyed our first sights over Machu Picchu and the surrounding mountains.

Line in front of the entrance gate

People going up the "Oh my God"stairs

View over Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate

Rainbow over Machu Picchu

Perched like a penguin colony, we admired the astonishing view of the site, nestled on top of the mountain and overlooking the valley.  After taking lots of photos, we walked the last 15 minutes down the path to the entrance to the ruins.  We arrived at around 8, after which Ruben walked us through the main attractions of the site for a couple of hours.  The sheer scale of the place is what is most memorable, as well as the incredible stonework (in particular the Temple of the Sun).  It is thought that Hiram Bingham may not have been the first person to discover Machu Picchu, as no gold or silver have been found.  The Incas had fled Machu Picchu and surrounding cities to avoid the being discovered (and possibly destroyed) by the Spanish.  Around 40% of Machu Picchu has been restored, the rest is original.

The tourist colony perched on the Sun Gate

Ruben giving us some explanations

Intihuatana ("Hitching Post of the Sun") stone

View of the valley below Machu Picchu

Llamas resting in the ruins

John went up to Wayna Picchu, the mountain overlooking the ruins... After three days of trekking and a 3am start, the steep ascent up Waynu Picchu was a little intimidating.  Nor did it help that everyone else in our group had bailed, so I'd be flying solo.  At least I'd been able to shed my rucksack at the entrance to the ruins.  Relieved of this burden, I bounced up the first steps, past a load of tourists whose considerably less repulsive clothes suggested that they had been driven up from Aguas Calientes that morning.  Clem had been put off by stories of narrow paths and precipitous edges, while the others hadn't fancied tales of steep and roughly-hewn steps.  There was truth to both reports.  After around half an hour's climb, by which time the blazing heat had sapped the last of my energy, I reached the Inca ruins at the top of Waynu Picchu.  Realising that the summit was still some way off, I used the last of my enthusiasm to bound up more steep steps, through a tunnel, and up a wooden ladder.  Finally I emerged onto some large rocks balanced atop the mountain, with a stunning view over Machu Picchu and the surrounding valley.  After persuading someone to take a quick photo for proof, it was time for the infinitely more difficult task of getting down.

On the way up to Wayna Picchu

Not looking forward to the way back down

Ruins at the top of Wayna Picchu

Finally at the summit, with Machu Picchu below

It wasn't entirely heartening to find that the steps down from the summit were so steep that those ahead of me were descending backwards.  I went for the sideways approach, edging down very, very slowly.  After this first section it was a little easier, but with tiredness setting in quickly it was a relief to finally find myself on level ground at the entrance to the mountain.  After wandering around the ruins for a little while, slightly lost, I finally managed to find Clem perched on a rock taking in the view...(she had been thinking of going to the Inca bridge but the prospect of a 15 minute walk on a small pathway with a steep fall on the side discouraged her).

Start of the descent

Going down backwards

Way to the Inca bridge

We then took the bus down to Aguas Calientes, where we met one last time with the group and our guides. We boarded the train to Cusco, which took three and a half hours. By that time, we were pretty tired and not feeling that well.  We had a nice warm soup and a hot (!) shower at the hotel and woke up around 9:30 am the next day feeling already much better.