18th February: Back to Jodhpur

Our only task for the day was to drive to Jodhpur, which we knew would take only a few hours. We thus decided to leave after lunch, giving us a full morning in Jaisalmer to wander around the city and go shopping. I was looking in particular for an antique embroided Rajasthani skirt. I realised, however, after looking at a few of them that it would be extremely heavy to wear and that a belt or a strip of embroidery would be a better option. We went back to the shop our guide had shown us the day before and were taken to the first floor where the room was full of embroidered clothes. The shop manager showed us a few pieces and asked us to select a couple, which I did. One of the pieces he had laid out for us caught my attention. Then came the interesting part: negotiating the price.  We are never great at haggling; it was particularly difficult because I really liked the piece I had chosen. Nevertheless, we managed to get two pieces for half the price he had quoted us before for just one piece. That probably just means he started at a particularly exorbitant rate, but we walked out happy with the deal.

Walking the commercial streets of Jaisalmer

We then met John's parents back at the hotel and headed to Trio restaurant for lunch, which had been recommended by our guide. After a tasty lunch, we had a quick look at the Mandir Palace, the current residence of the Maharawal of Jaisalmer (part of which is now a hotel). Standing in the courtyard were several very fine Marwari steeds, with their distinctively narrow and folded ears. We then walked back to the Pleasant Haveli to load our bags in and on top of the car, and headed towards Jodhpur where we would spend the night as a stopover on the long road to Udaipur.

Sandstone facade of the Mandir Palace

Marwari horses; note the ears

On the way we stopped off briefly at the Gadi Sagar, a water tank surrounded by several Hindu temples (and with one in the middle as well).  On the way down to the tank is the Tilon Ki Pol, a gate paid for by a wealthy courtesan. The Maharawal refused permission for her to build the gate, since it would offend his honour to pass beneath it on the way to the temples.  She bravely ignored him and went ahead with construction when he was absent, adding a small shrine to Krishna on top of the gate to prevent the Maharawal from destroying it on his return.  Cunning.

Tilon Ki Pol

Looking back at Tilon Ki Pol from the ghats by the side of the water tank

Driving on to Jodhpur, Bharat asked us whether he could stop a few times for tea because Saturday was his day of fasting. Obviously he was very welcome to stop and have some rest (it was also in our interests that he shouldn't feel too faint!). The drive was smooth until we reached Jodhpur where he became a bit lost and was reduced to asking taxis for directions, none of whom could help. Finally we called the hotel and they gave us directions to a meeting point where a motorcyclist was waiting for us. Following a motorbike zigzagging through the traffic on an Indian road seemed pretty tricky but our driver (even though he must have been exhausted by then) managed it without any problem.

We received a very warm welcome at the Kothi Heritage hotel, which was run by a Jain family who had converted their family home into a hotel. They put a garland of marigold flowers around our neck as the traditional welcome in India and offered us a welcome drink in the house's main room. The hotel is run by the children of the family patriarch, but apparently the father still comes regularly to the house because he is very attached to it (understandably so). Our rooms were on the top floor, very spacious and spotlessly clean. The size of the house confirmed that there were some very wealthy Jain families in India. Although they themselves are fully vegetarian, they do serve eggs and alcohol to their clients. We ordered a few dishes that were quickly ready and served in the main room. We felt very well looked after.