29th January: Walking in the mountains, and a reminder of Tibet's plight

The frigid temperature of our room did not encourage us to leap from the bed, but we did eventually make it out from under the blankets. For breakfast we went to the restaurant of the Green Hotel, whose terrace was bathed in the morning sun and looked out over the snow-covered mountains to the north. By the time we had stirred from that idyll the clock had ticked past 11 am and it was time for some exercise.


We walked back to the main square and took a right, headed uphill towards Dharamkot (or so we hoped). The path meandered up beneath the Himalayan cedar trees, past a small Buddhist stupa, and along the side of the valley.  We were greeted by an old goatherd whose bleating drove nibbled at the undergrowth just off the path. After half an hour or so we arrived at the start of Dharamkot, a small village perched on the edge of the valley. 

Goatherd and a few of his charges

Walking among the cedars

Looking down over Dharamkot

Face-off at Dharamkot

Leaving the village for later, we continued along the other side of the hill. We'd been told that the route to Triund, a 9km walk from McLeod Ganj, was closed due to snowfall but that we could go part of the way before having to turn back. We'd also been told that the route was obvious, but it didn't seem so clear when we arrived at a fork in the road. We guessed left (wrongly, it transpired). The path continued along the side of the hill, mostly beneath the cedar trees but occasionally emerging to glorious views of the valley below. A few prayer flags fluttered in the breeze. In the forest below us we saw what appeared to be moving bushes; then we spotted the brightly coloured clothing of the small women to whose backs the large branches were strapped.

Prayer flags and snow-capped peaks in the distance

Cedars and mountains

Explanation for the moving bushes

We came to an area where hundreds of prayer flags rippled from tree to tree. As we paused for photos the moving bushes, having made their way up onto the path from the forest below, trudged slowly past us. We followed them along the path at a respectful distance, and soon after came to a clearing. The women continued along the path, which wound down to what seemed to be a refugee village below. We thought about following, but decided to leave them in peace. Just above the clearing was a small Buddhist temple, surrounded by several small stone cabins that seemed to be uninhabited. Signs on the trees read "Silence please, retreat area."

Moving bushes in action

Temple amidst the retreat

We retraced our steps towards Dharamkot, and made our way down through the small and very tranquil village. You could still make out the traces of tourism (most bizarre was a painted sign on a rock: "Sushi -->") but this was much more peaceful than McLeod. We continued along the path, asking directions to Bhagsu, another village on the way back to McLeod. After passing several small Hindu shrines we arrived in a village that was rather larger than Dharamkot, and seemed to have nearly as many hostels and travel agencies as McLeod Ganj. Nevertheless the magnificent views of the surrounding valley compensated for the slight over-development of the village.

Dharamkot (with a few monks on the path below)

A little Shiva shrine (you can tell by the trident)

A rather bizarre temple in Bhagsu

We had planned to have a late lunch in Bhagsu, but the restaurants recommended in our guide were all closed (some temporarily for refurbishments, others permanently) so we continued along the road another 2 km to McLeod. We headed for Peace restaurant, which had turned us away the previous night but was now open. The only seats were by the door, and I spent most of the time turning to shut the door that was continuously left open by people coming and going (in remarkable volume for such a small place). Nevertheless the food was excellent, and we left with our appetites sated by delicious momos and thenthuk. 

After lunch we went for a stroll down to the Tsuglagkhang temple, the main temple of the government-in-exile, just next door to the residence of the Dalai Lama. On the way we stopped by the Tibetan Museum, which told the sad story of the destruction still being inflicted by the Chinese on the Tibetan people, their land, and their culture. I don't think anyone outside China seriously disputes the facts, but here and here are a couple of independent reports, separated by nearly 50 years but both using the word "genocide". The Tibetan cause has been on the fringes of public consciousness for so long that perhaps people forget that the international community continues in its shameful failure to take any meaningful action to stop the genocide being perpetrated by the Chinese. Too inconvenient to take on a major power, I suppose. In the meantime more and more Tibetans are taking the awful step of self-immolation in protest.  Go here to register your own protest, which requires rather less of a sacrifice: www.standupfortibet.org

Just one of China's crimes

Prayer wheels at the Tsuglagkhang

After a quick circumambulation of the temple we walked back up the hill to the centre of McLeod, stopping off at a few of the many stalls lining Temple Road. We were keen to provide a little help to the Tibetan refugees, and there were lots of pretty bangles for Clem to choose from. After she had picked out a couple of items, we walked back around to Siddarth House to enjoy the sunset from our balcony. The late afternoon sun bathed the mountainside opposite in a glorious shade of pink as it fell below the horizon behind us. The frigid evening arrived almost immediately. 

The Chorten at the centre of the village

Some Tibetan women in front of the Chorten

We wrapped up in all of our fleeces and headed back up to the village. We had dinner at a place called Nick's Italian Kitchen. The food came quickly and was warm, tasty, and filling. We lingered for a while, making the most of their wifi connection to work on the blog and start booking hotels in the Middle East. Then we scurried back to the hotel through the freezing darkness and bundled ourselves up again in blankets and thermals to stay warm.